When it’s Indian women's attire in Indian culture, the saree holds the first place because of its unique draping style and grace. Every Indian woman has worn this exquisite piece of cloth not only on special occasions and festivals but also included it in their day-to-day wear or more regular wear. The significance of the saree goes beyond fashion and style, which truly represents Indian culture in its designs, fabrics, and weaving techniques. The evolution of saree from the olden times to today, reflects the changing times through the draping styles and fabrics while ensuring the timeless elegance stays.
Let’s explore the evolution of sarees from their historical roots to modern-day styles and fashion.
Sarees during the Indus Valley Civilization
Archaeologists have found the existence of sarees In the Indus Valley Civilization as they discovered figurines of women wearing cloth draped simplistically. The cloth was perhaps made from breathable fabric like cotton, which was grown in the area to make it comfortable to wear for the women from those times.
Sarees during the Vedic Period
The Vedic Period in India was 1500-500 BCE, during which time the saree was a more refined piece of cloth with patterns and colours. The sarees were colored with natural dyes to make them look colourful and bright. During those times, the saree was worn with a piece of cloth to cover the bust, called Uttariya, accentuated with a waistband, called kayabandh, to keep the saree in place. The saree itself was called the Antariya.
Sarees in the Mughal Period
Mughals ruled India from 1526 to 1857 and during their reign, women in their culture wore Islamic dresses like Qaba ( long gowns), Gharara, and Sharara, made of brocade, silk, and velvet. However, Mughals introduced luxury with gold and silver thread work and various embroidery techniques like Chikankari and Zardozi with Mughal-inspired motifs are were primarily Buta (flower), Guldaan(flower vase), Jaali (Lattice), architectural motifs including domes, minarets, and arches and animal and bird motifs like pigeons, peacocks, and elephants. These motifs continue to adorn a variety of fabrics to make each saree look traditional.
Sarees in the Colonial Period
India was under British Rule from 1858 to 1947, which changed the saree fabrics and trends. During this period, blouses and petticoats were introduced, giving the saree a contemporary look. Almost all women started to wear sarees as a staple, showcasing their cultural pride and defiance against British rule.
Women adopted the full sleeved, high-collared blouses influenced by the Victorian era. The queens and Maharanis were seen wearing western styled blouses with traditional lose front of saree draped over the shoulder and carried in front ( Seedha Palla). In many paintings from those times, Maharanis and princess were seen in lightweight sarees made with flowy chiffon fabric, with printed blouses.
Sarees Post India Independence
During the era post Indian Independence, India saw a major cultural and social transformation. The most loved Indian attire for women – saree, gained even more importance as a marker for identity and love for India. A lot of women like Sarojini Naidu, Indira Gandhi, and Vijaya Lakshmi Pandit embraced saree, primarily in cotton fabric to show India’s pride and made it into a symbol of courage.
Sarojini Naidu was an activist and a poet, who wore Khadi sarees as a symbol of resilience. She wore khadi sarees also to endorse her belief in the Indian craftsmanship over British goods.
Indira Gandhi, the first Prime Minister of India often wore sarees in a variety of fabrics like cotton, tussar silk, and chanderi. She wore saree as a symbol of not only political power but also elegance and grace.
These powerful women had influenced many generations proving that power and gentleness go together.
The Influence of Bollywood
Indian film cinema or Bollywood saw a new era of saree during 1960s and 70s. Popular actresses like Meena Kumari, Madhubala, Nutan, and Sharmila Tagore elegantly adorned sarees in movies, influencing women to make it a wardrobe staple.
Mumtaz, in 1968 wore a pre-pleated saree in the movie Brahmachari, which became an instant hit amongst women in India. That kind of saree is still called as the “Mumtaz Saree”.
In later years, Bollywood’s sarees evolved from Mumtaz sarees to modern styling with bold prints, and sheer fabrics like georgette and chiffon. Fashion designers of Indian cinema started experimenting more and more with modern blouses and fabrics. In the 80’s and 90’s, movie actresses like Sridevi, Madhuri Dixit, and Juhi Chawla made sarees even more iconic. They featured in Yash Chopra’s movies, the director who was known for great direction and beautiful sets. He showcased chiffon flowy sarees in whites and pastel shades on actresses against the snow-clad mountains and beautiful outdoor settings, making the saree a timeless fashion statement.
Inspired from Bollywood, women of India did not restrict sarees to festivals and weddings but started wearing them to high profile events and parties, exuding cinematic charm.
Designers in the 1990’s
Sabyasachi Mukherjee
Sabyasachi is a famous Indian fashion designer, who entered the fashion industry in late 90s, and eventually grabbed the attention from people in early 2000s with his Kashgar Bazaar collection. He introduced Indian outfits that had a beautiful mix of colours, cultures, crafts, and fabrics.
Ritu Kumar in 2000s
The 2000s marked a new chapter in saree fashion—one that seamlessly blended modern designs with Indian craftsmanship. This time saw the rise of sarees that were lighter and more stylish, made with chiffon, satins, and organzas with handwork.
Ritu Kumar, another popular Indian Fashion Designer introduced sheer fabrics like organza, and georgette that made saree not only versatile but elegant to look at. Her saree collection evolved over the years and later in the decade, she introduced velvet with metallic accents.
Tarun Tahilani in late 2000s
Tarun Tahilani brought the pre-draped sarees, making wearing of sarees extremely easy with architectural designs and luxury embellishments. He also introduced chiffon and tulle to make sarees look chic and flowy. His sarees feature Swarovski crystals as well as intricate lacework, making each of piece favorite amongst Indian celebrities.
Later, he introduced saree-gown, a blend of saree and gown, giving it a fusion look, perfect not only for Indian occasions but also nontraditional events and parties. He also brought earthy colors and made champagne gold and soft beiges quite popular amongst saree lovers.
Sarees in the Present Times
With the rise of online shopping, sarees have become more accessible than ever. Women could now explore and purchase sarees from every part of India in a click. This has allowed women to embrace Indian heritage along with modern designs. From the comfort of their home, they can now order a Banarasi Saree or a Handloom Saree from Calcutta without having to go to that state or explore the shops. Because of this, traditional artisans continue to manufacture more and more sarees because of the global buyers through online stores.
Instagram and Facebook platform has given a lot of opportunities to fashion influencers to come up with innovative saree draping style. These are popular especially amongst new generation who look for unique and fusion styles.
Because of technology and social media platforms, the saree has now gone global. Indian designs mentioned above and more such designers have now brought their designs to International fashion runways. Hollywood actresses like Gigi Hadid, Naomi Campbell and Oprah Winfrey , the famous talk show host and author have worn sarees at red carpet events.
Indian fashion designers now showcase their craft on International Platforms like Paris Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week, to reach out to bigger audiences.
The Modern Looks
In the present time, traditional style of draping has taken a modern route as women are now seeing wearing sarees with embellished blazers to give it a modern and luxurious look.
The crop tops and neck sleeve tops have taken over from the traditional blouses.
When it comes to accessories, women accentuate their saree looks with belts and sneakers.
Women who are environment conscious now buy handloom weaves or organic fabrics with eco-friendly dyes. Organisations like FabIndia, Raw Mango are gaining popularity for being fashion-conscious.
Conclusion: The Legacy of the Saree
Saree carries many stories of generations, the cultural richness of India to the artistry of craftsmen. This piece of cloth has evolved gracefully through time, embracing change while ensuring its true essence remains. From simple handwoven cotton saree to rich and luxurious crystals embellished designer masterpieces, the saree continues to exude elegance and Indian culture through its designs and fabrics.
