India is diverse in history with maharanis and queens having a special place because of their beauty, royalty, and the wardrobe essential - saree. A saree is a 6 to 9-yard piece of cloth that symbolizes Indian tradition and elegance. From the Mughal-inspired motifs and designs to the luxurious silk weaves of South India, Queens, and Maharanis have adorned themselves with this gorgeous piece of cloth reflecting their status, heritage, and personal style.
Let’s go back in time and understand the favourites of our most popular Queens and Maharanis of India:
Maharani Indira Devi of Cooch Behar – In Chiffon Sarees
Maharani Indira Devi of Cooch Behar was a true trendsetter in early 20th-century India, redefining royal fashion with her perfect style. She brought the chiffon sarees into Indian culture—a trend that remains timeless even today. While visiting France, she discovered the soft allure of chiffon and had sarees custom-made from French looms, choosing pastel shades and intricate designs that set her apart. Her fabric choice was more than personal preference—a bold blend of traditional Indian attire with Western elegance. She often wore white chiffon sarees, paired with pearls, creating a signature look of grace and sophistication. This refined sense of style was later embraced by her daughter, Maharani Gayatri Devi of Jaipur, further establishing chiffon sarees as an enduring symbol of charm and effortless elegance.
The Queen of Jaipur – Maharani Gayatri Devi in flowy Chiffon Sarees
By the mid-19th century, the French chiffon, made from silk had already captured the taste of the elite in America and Europe. However, Indira Devi – mother of Maharani Gayatri Devi introduced chiffon to India and made it a royal hallmark.
Just like her mother, Maharani Gayatri Devi was often seen in pastel chiffon sarees in her public appearances. The flowy sarees were paired with full-sleeve traditional and conservative blouses. She paired her sarees with pearl and emerald jewellery. Throughout her reign, Maharani Gayatri Devi was an epitome of refinement and beauty.
Rani Lakshmi Bai – The Warrior Queen in Nauvari Saree
Rani Lakshmibai, the legendary queen of Jhansi, wasn’t just a ruler—she was a warrior who fought against British rule.
She was known for her distinctive style of wearing sarees. On the battleground, she adorned a saree- in the Maharashtrian Nauvari style, where the saree is tied tightly around the legs to give freedom to ride horses and fight easily like a solider.
The Nauvari saree is worn in Maharashtra, crafted from a variety of cloth depending on the occasion. For women on battleground like Rani Lakshmi bai, the fabric was chosen for its practicality and durability making it symbolic as well as functional.
The term Nauvari comes from the word – Nau, which means nine referring to the 9 yard length of the saree. The Nauvari saree is made from pure silk with motifs coming from the Maharashtrian culture. The skilled artisans from Yeola and Paithan region of Maharashtra make Nauvari sarees, reflecting Maharashtra’s culture and authenticity.
Maharani Sita Devi of Baroda – in silk sarees with real god threads
Maharani Sita Devi of Baroda was known for her opulent sense of style. She was often seen draped beautifully in silk sarees with gold threads. The sarees had luxurious Zari with gold threads and came with intricate handwoven designs. Her sarees were made of Banarasi silk, popular because of its smooth and shiny texture, giving every piece an incredible visual appeal. The intricate weaving and buta work further added to the elegance of her Banarasi silk sarees.
Maharani Vijaya Raje Scindia of Gwalior in Plain Chiffon with Zari Border
Maharani of Gwalior wore sarees that reflected her elegant personality as well as Indian tradition through the plain chiffons, accentuated with broad Zari borders. This combination reflected elegance and luxury together. Unlike many Maharanis from that time, Maharani Vijaya embraced Indian culture and made her style an unshakeable cultural pride. She was often seen in soft pinks, beiges, and ivories having a touch of fine gold thread work with Zari border.
The Magnificent Drape: How Queens of India Wore their Sarees
Queens of India wore their sarees with beautiful jewellery including Polki gold neckpieces – chokers and long necklaces, earrings, and bangles. They also wore maang tikkas and kamarbandhs to accentuate their forehead and waists respectively. The entire look gave an attractive and regal look for their status and court-room appearances.
The way they draped their sarees also reflected their heritage. While the Nivi drape (pleats in front with a pallu over the shoulder) became popular later, earlier queens followed traditional regional styles. Maratha royals preferred the Nauvari drape, which allowed for ease of movement, Bengali queens favoured their signature drape with a pallu thrown over one shoulder, and Tamil Nadu’s elite women often wore the Madisar style, a unique wrap-around drape.
Their sarees were more than just fabric; they were a display of status and artistry. Rich zari borders, hand-painted patterns, and real gold or silver thread work made their attire stand out, emphasizing their royal stature.
Different occasions called for different sarees. The Maharanis wore Kanjeevaram and Banarasi silk sarees for court meetings and grand events like weddings and festivals. For everyday wear, they wore lighter fabrics like Muslin, Chiffon, and Chanderi offering comfort as well as beauty.
The lifetime Influence of Maharanis’ Saree designs in today’s fashion
Our modern fashion is a beautiful depiction of the legacy of Indian queens or Maharanis. The handwoven silk sarees from Banaras to the light weight chiffon or the Paithani saree of Maharashtra, the rich taste and signature draping styles have influenced Indian fashion designers to make bridal and festive wear today.
The very popular Indian designers like Ritu Kumar, Sabyasachi, Manish Malhotra and Tarun Tahiliani have drawn inspiration from the royal sarees of Maharanis. They incorporate traditional Mughal-inspired motifs, zari work and weaving techniques to make Kanjivaram, Paithani, and Banarasi drapes. The pastel chiffons worn by Maharani Gayatri Devi are now evident in bridal wear. The chiffons are beautified for the festive and bridal wear with brocades as well as gold threaded weaves to give it a luxurious feel to the light wear chiffon fabric.
Many women in the present-day world look for regal-inspired sarees to have a look of a queen on their special day. With zardozi work and floral design on Banarasi bright red colored silk is a favorite amongst brides these days. Deepika Padukone, a popular Indian actress on her wedding wore a Kanjivaram saree with pure Zari threads that took 45 days to complete. The saree had a mythical two-headed bird as the motif running all over the saree. The bird is a symbol of heritage and royalty in the Indian folklore.
The gorgeous and luxurious sarees worn in Indian history have defined cultural heritage, grace and luxury, coming down through generations, and becoming a staple in today’s rich and elaborate Indian events.
Also, women from Maharashtra have also started to choose the Nauvari saree as their wedding attire to give a nod to the Maharashtrian culture. Because of the growing variety in colours, fabrics, and intricacy of designs – Nauvari in the modern-day world has captured the interest of the new generation for special occasions.
Conclusion
For Indian queens and princesses, sarees were more than just clothing—they were a symbol of their status and tradition. Every saree carried a deeper meaning, whether it was an ornate gold or silver woven drape for a wedding, a bright and luxurious silk saree for religious ceremonies, or an intricately embroidered piece for royal court appearances. Even today, the styles once worn by India’s queens continue to influence modern fashion, inspiring the revival of handloom textiles and keeping their rich legacy alive for future generations.
